Nanda Devi Base Camp Trek Itinerary: Complete 12 Day Route Guide from Dehradun
There's something about standing at the base of India's second-highest peak that changes you. The Nanda Devi Base Camp Trek isn't just another Himalayan adventure—it's a journey into one of the most remote and pristine corners of Uttarakhand, where the mountains feel older, quieter, and somehow more sacred.
I've walked enough trails to know when a trek is special, and this one sits in a category of its own. You'll spend twelve days gradually working your way through dense forests, traditional Bhotiya villages where time moves differently, and finally into the stark, beautiful landscape surrounding Nanda Devi. The peak itself—all 25,643 feet of it—remains partially hidden until you've earned the view through days of steady walking.
This itinerary is for trekkers who have some experience under their boots. If you've done a few moderate treks and feel comfortable walking 6-7 hours a day at altitude, you're ready. Complete beginners might find this challenging, but not impossible if you're genuinely fit and prepared for what remote Himalayan trekking actually means.
Quick Trek Facts
Let me give you the numbers upfront, because planning a trek like this starts with knowing what you're getting into:
Region: Uttarakhand, India
Duration: 12 Days
Maximum Altitude: 13,780 ft (4,200 m)
Difficulty Level: Moderate to Difficult
Best Season: May to June & September to October
Starting Point: Dehradun
Ending Point: Dehradun
The altitude isn't extreme by Himalayan standards, but don't let that fool you. What makes this trek demanding is the remoteness, the long daily distances, and the fact that you're carrying everything you need for days in areas where there's no backup plan.
Day 1: Dehradun to Kathgodam
Distance: 270 km
Travel Time: 7-8 hours
Mode: Road (Private vehicle or bus)
Night Stay: Kathgodam guesthouse
Your trek technically starts with a long drive, and honestly, I always use this day to ease into mountain time. Dehradun to Kathgodam takes you through the foothills, past tea gardens and small towns that gradually give way to bigger hills.
The road is decent—mostly paved, with the usual mountain traffic. You'll climb and descend through winding sections, and if you're in a shared jeep or bus, expect stops for chai and bathroom breaks. I recommend starting early, like 6 AM early, because reaching Kathgodam with some daylight left makes settling in much easier.
Kathgodam itself is nothing fancy. It's a railway town that serves as a transit hub for treks and pilgrimages heading deeper into Kumaon. Find a simple guesthouse, eat a proper meal, and sleep. The real journey starts tomorrow.
Day 2: Kathgodam to Munsiyari
Distance: 280 km
Travel Time: 9-10 hours
Altitude at Munsiyari: 7,200 ft
Night Stay: Munsiyari guesthouse or homestay
This is one of those long, beautiful, exhausting mountain drives that reminds you why the Himalayas aren't easy to reach. You're heading toward the Indo-Nepal border area, and the road takes you through Almora, Bageshwar, and finally into the Johar Valley.
The first half is relatively smooth. But after Thal, the road narrows, clinging to hillsides with drops that make your stomach flip. The views, though—absolutely worth it. On a clear day, you'll catch your first glimpse of the Panchachuli peaks, five snow-covered summits lined up like they're posing for you.
Munsiyari feels like the edge of somewhere. It's the last town with proper facilities, perched on a ridge with panoramic mountain views. The place has a frontier vibe—a mix of trekkers, traders, and locals living their mountain lives. Stay in a guesthouse or one of the family-run homestays. The food is simple but warming, usually dal, rice, and whatever vegetables came up from the valley.
Get a good night's sleep. The trekking starts tomorrow, and your body needs to be ready.
Day 3: Munsiyari to Lilam Village
Trek Distance: 14 km
Time: 5-6 hours
Altitude: 6,100 ft (slight descent)
Trail Type: Jeep track and forest path
Stay: Homestay in Lilam
Finally, boots on the ground. You'll either take a shared jeep or walk the entire way to Lilam—I've done both. The jeep saves energy, but walking gives you time to adjust to the rhythm of mountain travel.
The trail follows the Gori Ganga river valley, and it's mostly downhill or flat. You're walking through oak and rhododendron forests, past small waterfalls and through occasional villages where locals might be working in terraced fields. The air smells different here—cleaner, sharper, with that particular scent of pine and mountain water.
Lilam is one of those villages that feels frozen in time. It's a traditional Bhotiya settlement, the houses built close together with slate roofs and wooden balconies. The people here follow a semi-nomadic lifestyle, moving between winter and summer villages. You'll stay in a homestay, probably sleeping on thin mattresses in a room with other trekkers, eating dinner around a bukhari (wood stove) while your host family prepares the meal.
The food is basic but filling. Expect roti, dal, rice, maybe some potato curry. Don't expect variety. Do expect warmth and hospitality that's genuine.
Day 4: Lilam Village to Bogudyari
Trek Distance: 10 km
Time: 5-6 hours
Altitude: 9,350 ft
Altitude Gain: 3,250 ft
Stay: Camping at Bogudyari
This is where the trek gets real. You're climbing steadily now, leaving behind the last remnants of regular civilization. The trail winds through dense forests, crossing small streams on log bridges or stepping stones. The trees here are thick—birch, oak, pine—and the forest floor is carpeted with moss and fallen leaves.
You'll gain significant altitude today, and you'll feel it. Take your time. Stop when you need to breathe. There's no prize for reaching camp first, and altitude is something you negotiate with, not conquer.
Bogudyari is a clearing in the forest, flat enough for tents and protected by surrounding trees. By the time you arrive, your support team (if you have one) will have set up camp. If you're doing this independently, you'll be pitching your own tent and cooking your own food.
The temperature drops noticeably at night here. Layer up, drink warm liquids, and sleep early. The days ahead are longer.
Day 5: Bogudyari to Rilkot
Trek Distance: 8 km
Time: 4-5 hours
Altitude: 10,200 ft
Stay: Camping at Rilkot
Shorter distance today, but the trail is more rugged. You're climbing higher, and the landscape starts to shift. The dense forest thins out, replaced by alpine meadows and scrub vegetation. The mountains feel closer now, more present in your peripheral vision.
You'll cross several streams fed by melting snow higher up. The water is freezing cold and crystal clear—safe to drink if you have a filter or purification tablets. I always fill my bottles at these crossings because mountain water tastes like nothing else.
Rilkot is a high meadow surrounded by rocky ridges. There's something stark and beautiful about camping here. The wind picks up in the evenings, and the stars at night are sharp enough to hurt your eyes. If you're lucky and the sky is clear, the moonlight on the surrounding peaks creates shadows that look like someone painted them.
Make sure your tent is properly staked. Wind at this altitude isn't gentle.
Day 6: Rilkot to Ghanghar
Trek Distance: 7 km
Time: 4-5 hours
Altitude: 11,480 ft
Stay: Camping at Ghanghar
You're deep into the mountains now, in terrain that sees very few people. The trail today is rough in places—rocky, steep in sections, with loose scree that slides under your boots. Trekking poles help. A lot.
The landscape is more exposed here. You're above the treeline, walking through boulder fields and alpine grass. Glacier-fed streams cut through the valleys, their sound constant in the background. The air is thinner, and you'll notice yourself breathing harder even on flat sections.
Ghanghar is a small campsite tucked into a rocky basin. It's exposed to wind, and weather can change quickly up here. What starts as a sunny afternoon can turn into sleet or snow within an hour. That's just how it is at altitude.
Keep your rain gear accessible. Always.
Day 7: Ghanghar to Pachu Glacier & Nanda Devi Base Camp
Trek Distance: 8-9 km
Time: 6-7 hours
Altitude: 13,780 ft
Stay: Camping near base camp
This is the day you've been climbing toward. The trail takes you across the Pachu Glacier, a river of ice and rock that flows down from the higher peaks. Walking on a glacier is different—the surface is uneven, sometimes icy, sometimes covered in loose moraine. You need to watch every step.
And then, if the weather cooperates, you see it. Nanda Devi emerges from behind the ridges, massive and serene, its summit lost in clouds or blazing white against a blue sky depending on the day. The peak is sacred in Hindu mythology—the "Bliss-Giving Goddess"—and standing there, you understand why ancient people saw divinity in these mountains.
The base camp itself is simple. A flat area suitable for tents, surrounded by moraines and with the glacier stretching out nearby. There's no infrastructure, no tea stall, no shelter beyond what you carry. Just you, your team, and the mountain.
The temperature can drop below freezing at night. Make sure your sleeping bag is rated for it. And take time to just sit and look. You've walked a long way to be here.
Day 8: Nanda Devi Base Camp (Rest & Exploration Day)
Activity: Acclimatization and short explorations
Altitude: 13,780 ft
Stay: Same campsite
Rest days at altitude are crucial, but "rest" doesn't mean doing nothing. Your body needs to adjust to the thin air, and the best way to do that is active rest—short walks, gentle movement, staying hydrated.
If you're feeling good, explore the areas around camp. Walk toward the glacier's edge. Photograph the peak from different angles as the light changes throughout the day. Talk with your fellow trekkers about the journey so far. These are the moments that stick with you later.
This day also serves as a weather buffer. If conditions were poor on Day 7, you can use today to get your proper view of the peak. Mountain weather is unpredictable, and having flexibility in your itinerary is smart.
Drink more water than you think you need. Eat even if you're not hungry. Sleep as much as possible. Your body is working hard just to exist at this altitude.
Day 9: Pachu Glacier to Martoli
Trek Distance: 14 km
Time: 6-7 hours
Altitude: 11,050 ft (descending)
Stay: Camping or basic shelter at Martoli
The descent begins. Your knees will remind you that going down is harder than going up. The trail retraces some of your earlier route before branching off toward Martoli, an abandoned Bhotiya village that's become a popular camping spot for trekkers.
Martoli has an eerie, beautiful quality. The old stone houses still stand, empty now, their wooden balconies weathered by decades of mountain storms. The village was once a thriving seasonal settlement, but changing migration patterns and economic shifts led people to abandon it. Now it's a ghost town with spectacular views.
You can camp in the open meadows near the village or sometimes find shelter in one of the less-damaged buildings. The descent brings you back to slightly thicker air, and you'll notice yourself breathing easier, having more energy.
Day 10: Martoli to Rargari
Trek Distance: 12 km
Time: 5-6 hours
Altitude: 9,200 ft (descending)
Stay: Camping at Rargari
An easier day, mostly downhill or flat. The landscape softens as you descend—more vegetation, warmer temperatures, the sound of birds returning. Your body feels lighter, stronger, relieved of the altitude burden.
The trail passes through meadows dotted with wildflowers (if you're trekking in spring or early autumn), crosses several streams, and winds through patches of forest. You might spot Himalayan wildlife—musk deer, bharal (blue sheep), or if you're exceptionally lucky, signs of snow leopard.
Rargari is a pleasant campsite with flat ground and proximity to water. By now, the routine of mountain life has become natural—set up tent, boil water, eat dinner, watch the stars, sleep.
Day 11: Rargari to Kathgodam
Trek Distance: 6 km trek + long drive
Time: 2-3 hours trek, 9-10 hours drive
Stay: Kathgodam hotel
The final day of trekking is short. You'll walk the remaining distance to the road head, likely near Lilam or Munsiyari, where vehicles will be waiting. Then it's back to the long drive—retracing the route through the Johar Valley, past Bageshwar, through Almora, and finally to Kathgodam.
The drive gives you time to process everything. Your body is tired but satisfied. Your mind is full of images—mountain peaks, glacier crossings, star-filled nights, the weight of your pack, the taste of hot chai at morning camp.
Kathgodam will feel like civilization again. Hot showers, real beds, food with variety. It's jarring, honestly, coming back to so much sensory input after days of mountain simplicity.
Day 12: Kathgodam to Dehradun
Distance: 270 km
Time: 7-8 hours
Mode: Road
End Point: Dehradun
The final leg. You retrace your original route through the foothills back to Dehradun. Most people spend this day quiet, staring out windows, already missing the mountains even though you just left them.
Dehradun will feel overwhelming—the traffic, the noise, the heat of the plains. Give yourself time to readjust. Maybe spend an extra day here before heading home. Your body needs to decompress, and so does your mind.
Route Map & Distance Summary
| Day | Route | Distance | Altitude | Mode |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Dehradun to Kathgodam | 270 km | - | Drive |
| 2 | Kathgodam to Munsiyari | 280 km | 7,200 ft | Drive |
| 3 | Munsiyari to Lilam | 14 km | 6,100 ft | Trek/Jeep |
| 4 | Lilam to Bogudyari | 10 km | 9,350 ft | Trek |
| 5 | Bogudyari to Rilkot | 8 km | 10,200 ft | Trek |
| 6 | Rilkot to Ghanghar | 7 km | 11,480 ft | Trek |
| 7 | Ghanghar to Base Camp | 8-9 km | 13,780 ft | Trek |
| 8 | Rest Day at Base Camp | - | 13,780 ft | Rest |
| 9 | Base Camp to Martoli | 14 km | 11,050 ft | Trek |
| 10 | Martoli to Rargari | 12 km | 9,200 ft | Trek |
| 11 | Rargari to Kathgodam | 6 km + drive | - | Trek + Drive |
| 12 | Kathgodam to Dehradun | 270 km | - | Drive |
Total Trekking Distance: Approximately 80-85 km
Maximum Altitude: 13,780 ft (4,200 m)
Total Altitude Gain: Approximately 7,680 ft from Lilam to Base Camp
Best Time to Do Nanda Devi Base Camp Trek
Timing matters more than most people realize. This isn't a trek you can do year-round.
May to June (Pre-Monsoon): This is peak season. The weather is generally stable, with clear skies and good visibility. Snow from winter has mostly melted from the lower trails, though you'll still encounter it near base camp. Rhododendrons are blooming at lower altitudes, painting the forests red and pink. Days are warm enough that you might trek in a t-shirt during the afternoon, but nights are still cold.
The downside? More trekkers. Still not crowded by popular trek standards, but you won't have the mountains entirely to yourself.
September to October (Post-Monsoon): My preferred time, if I'm honest. The monsoon has cleared the air, leaving visibility so sharp you can see individual ridges dozens of kilometers away. The autumn colors are spectacular—golden meadows, rust-colored scrub, dark green forests. The weather is crisp and stable.
Nights are colder than pre-monsoon, and by late October, you're pushing the season. Snow can arrive without warning, closing the passes and making glacier crossings dangerous.
What to Avoid:
- July to August: Monsoon season. The trails become muddy, leeches are everywhere in the forests, and most critically, landslides can cut off roads and make rescue impossible. Some trekking companies don't even offer this trek during monsoon.
- November to April: Winter. The entire area is buried under snow, temperatures plummet to extremes, and most trails become impassable. This is for serious mountaineers with winter expedition experience, not trekkers.
Difficulty Level & Fitness Required
Let me be straight with you: this trek is not easy. It's rated moderate to difficult, and both parts of that rating matter.
What Makes It Moderate:
- The maximum altitude isn't extreme (under 14,000 ft)
- No technical climbing or mountaineering skills required
- Well-defined trails for most of the route
- Gradual altitude gain with built-in acclimatization
What Makes It Difficult:
- Long daily walking distances (5-7 hours most days)
- Remote location with no bailout options mid-trek
- Carrying a heavy backpack for multiple days
- Rugged terrain including boulder fields and glacier crossings
- Altitude still affects everyone differently
- Basic camping throughout—no lodges or comfortable accommodations
Fitness Requirements: You should be able to walk continuously for 6-7 hours with a 10-12 kg backpack. Start training at least 2-3 months before the trek. Focus on cardiovascular endurance (running, cycling, swimming) and leg strength (squats, lunges, step-ups). Do weekend hikes with a weighted backpack to condition your body for mountain walking.
Who Should Reconsider:
- Complete beginners with no trekking experience
- People with serious knee or ankle problems
- Anyone with heart or respiratory issues
- Those who haven't spent time at altitude before
If you're unsure, do a couple of moderate 5-6 day treks first. Build your confidence and understanding of mountain travel before committing to something this remote.
Packing List
After a dozen years of trekking, I've learned that packing is an art of brutal prioritization. Every item needs to justify its weight.
Clothing:
- Trek pants (2 pairs—one for trekking, one for camp)
- Thermal inners (top and bottom, wool or synthetic)
- T-shirts (3-4, quick-dry material)
- Fleece jacket (mid-layer warmth)
- Down jacket (essential for camp and high altitude)
- Rain jacket and pants (waterproof, not just water-resistant)
- Trekking socks (4-5 pairs, wool blend)
- Warm beanie and sun hat
- Gloves (lightweight and one warm pair)
- Undergarments (enough for the duration)
Footwear:
- Trekking boots (broken in, waterproof, ankle support)
- Camp shoes/sandals (lightweight, for evening relaxation)
Gear:
- Backpack (60-70 liters if carrying everything, 40-50 if porters carry tent/sleeping bag)
- Sleeping bag (rated to -10°C minimum)
- Trekking poles (seriously, don't skip these)
- Headlamp with extra batteries
- Water bottles (2 liters capacity total)
- Water purification tablets or filter
- Sunglasses (UV protection, category 3 or 4)
- Sunscreen (SPF 50+) and lip balm
- Personal first aid kit
- Toiletries (biodegradable soap, toilet paper, wet wipes)
- Dry bags (to keep clothes dry)
Documents:
- Government-issued photo ID
- Permits (arranged beforehand)
- Emergency contact information
- Travel insurance papers
- Some cash (no ATMs in the mountains)
Optional but Recommended:
- Camera with extra batteries
- Power bank
- Book or journal
- Playing cards (for camp entertainment)
- Personal medications
- Altitude sickness medication (Diamox—consult your doctor)
What NOT to Bring:
- Cotton clothing (takes forever to dry)
- Jeans (heavy, restrictive, useless when wet)
- Too many electronics
- Excessive toiletries
- More than one book
- Anything you'd be devastated to lose or damage
Pack light. Your back will thank you around day three.
Permits & Regulations
Nanda Devi National Park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and access is strictly controlled.
Inner Line Permit: Required for all trekkers. This needs to be arranged through the District Magistrate's office in Pithoragarh or through a registered trekking agency. Individual applications are possible but complicated. Most people go through an agency for this reason alone.
Documents Required:
- Government photo ID (Aadhaar, Driver's License, Passport)
- Two passport-size photographs
- Detailed itinerary
- Medical certificate (sometimes required)
Foreign Nationals: Need Protected Area Permit (PAP) in addition to the Inner Line Permit. This requires more paperwork and advance planning. Start the process at least 3-4 weeks before your trek.
Regulations to Follow:
- No littering (carry out everything you carry in)
- No plastic bags or non-biodegradable materials
- No open fires except in designated camping areas
- Stay on marked trails
- No hunting or disturbing wildlife
- Register at all forest checkpoints
The permits aren't just bureaucracy—they help manage the environmental impact on one of India's most pristine wilderness areas. Follow the rules.
Safety, Network & Electricity
Mobile Network: Basically non-existent once you leave Munsiyari. BSNL has occasional coverage in some of the lower villages, but don't count on it. From Lilam onward, assume you're off the grid.
Tell someone back home your itinerary and expected return date. Carry a physical map and compass (or know how to use GPS offline). Most organized treks carry satellite phones for emergencies, but solo trekkers need to accept that rescue, if needed, will take time.
Electricity: Nothing beyond Munsiyari. Charge all devices before starting the trek. Carry a power bank, but understand it won't last the entire trek. Some homestays in villages have limited solar power, but it's unreliable.
Safety Considerations:
- Always trek with at least one other person
- Carry a comprehensive first aid kit
- Know the symptoms of altitude sickness (headache, nausea, dizziness, insomnia)
- Have evacuation insurance that covers helicopter rescue
- Stay hydrated—drink 3-4 liters of water daily
- Listen to your body; summit fever isn't worth your life
Guide and Porter Recommendation: Unless you're an experienced mountaineer with navigation skills and wilderness survival knowledge, hire a local guide. They know the terrain, the weather patterns, the safe camping spots. Porters help distribute the load, making the trek more enjoyable and reducing your exhaustion.
Local guides also support the mountain economy. The money stays in the community that maintains these trails and welcomes trekkers into their homeland.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is the Nanda Devi Base Camp trek safe?
Yes, when done with proper preparation and respect for the mountains. The trek doesn't involve technical climbing or extreme altitude. The main risks are weather changes, altitude sickness, and injuries from falls. Trek with a guide, acclimatize properly, and carry appropriate gear. Thousands of people complete this trek safely every year.
Can beginners do this trek?
Technically yes, but practically I'd say build up to it first. If you're fit, determined, and willing to train properly, it's achievable. But it won't be easy, and you'll suffer if you're not prepared. Do at least one or two shorter Himalayan treks first to understand mountain conditions and how your body responds to altitude.
Is a permit mandatory?
Absolutely. The area is within Nanda Devi National Park, and trekking without proper permits can result in fines and deportation from the area. More importantly, the permit system exists to protect this fragile ecosystem. Get your permits in order—it's not optional.
How cold does it get at base camp?
Night temperatures at base camp can drop to -5°C to -10°C (15°F to 23°F), even in peak season. During the day, if the sun is out, it might feel warm enough to remove your jacket. But once the sun sets or clouds roll in, temperatures plummet. Wind chill makes it feel even colder. A good sleeping bag rated for -10°C and proper layering system are essential.
What about food during the trek?
In villages (Lilam, Martoli when accessible), you'll eat local food—dal, rice, roti, vegetable curry, sometimes eggs. At higher camps, you're eating whatever you've carried or what your trekking company provides. Expect simple, carbohydrate-heavy meals designed for energy. Bring energy bars, nuts, and chocolate for snacking on the trail. Don't expect variety, but the food is filling and keeps you going.
Can I do this trek solo?
Logistically yes, legally complicated. The permit system favors organized groups. Solo trekkers can apply but face more scrutiny. Practically speaking, going solo in such remote terrain is risky. At minimum, hire a local guide. The mountains don't care about your independence—they only care about your preparation and judgment.
What's the scenery like?
Extraordinary and varied. Dense forests transition to alpine meadows, which give way to stark, rocky high-altitude landscapes. You'll see traditional mountain villages, glacier-fed rivers, massive peaks including Nanda Devi, and if you're lucky, Himalayan wildlife. The night skies are spectacular—thousands of stars with zero light pollution.
Final Thoughts
The Nanda Devi Base Camp Trek isn't the easiest way to spend twelve days, but it's one of the most rewarding. You're walking through a landscape that's remained largely unchanged for centuries, following trails used by traders and shepherds long before trekkers arrived.
What stays with you isn't just the mountain views—though those are extraordinary. It's the quiet moments. Morning tea watching the sunrise turn the peaks gold. The sound of glacier water rushing over rocks. Conversations with fellow trekkers around a campfire. The bone-deep exhaustion at the end of a long day, and the satisfaction of having earned it.
If you're looking for comfort, this isn't your trek. If you're looking for something real, something that tests you and rewards you in equal measure, start planning.
The mountains will be there when you're ready.
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